Barber is a clear-eyed writer who can explain concepts like the interlocking microenvironment of soil, and how the billions of microorganisms inside create a volatile, tactile environment for food (that is often abused in industrial farming). He is also sharp and observant when bringing to life some of the passionate oddballs of this book, from Eduardo Sousa, the man who created a system of “natural” foie gras (that doesn’t involve force-feeding the geese) to Glenn Roberts, the man behind the heirloom grains of Anson Mills, whose vision of success comes “fifty years from now, that’s when my work has some kind of meaning.” Roberts doesn’t mean profit, per se; he’s talking about the trail he’ll leave behind, with the delicious grains that individuals, farms, and restaurants are growing with his seeds.
In some ways, it’s men like Roberts who are the soul of the book. He’s theorized that modern agriculture has killed the cultural part of farming — the stories, traditions, and rituals that come from the stubborn, sometimes impossible task of growing a crop on a farm and making enough money to live. Barber shows food professionals, farmers, and mad visionaries who are creating a new culture with food by selling fish with all the weird parts, or creating foie gras that is gray and delicious, all by “trusting” the animal.
The Third Plate is a provocative look at how “farm to table” cooking is sort of a beautiful fantasy, and suggests that to really eat and get food from the earth, we’re going to have to change our ways. Barber’s observations on how interconnected we are in the food system show the choices behind what we eat and what it means, and he brings more awareness to the plate.